Our Brick Facade can be installed with a limited knowledge of masonry practices. Over brick, block, painted concrete,
wooden exterior or new concrete, metal lath should applied to ensure a good bond. Over exterior wall construction, a
weather resistance barrier must be applied first under the metal lath. Note: WRB is not usually required over cement or
masonry.
Estimate the amount of stone and mortar you will need using this formula:
Wall area = length x height of the wall
Window area = window length x window height
Wall area covered by corners = linear feet of wall corner x .75 square footage required = wall area – window area – wall
area covered by corners.
1. Preparing the surface for artificial Stone
Our Brick Facade products can be applied to any structurally sound surface. Due to its light
weight, no special foundation or structural alterations are necessary. On masonry walls (block,
poured concrete, full brick) install 2.5 galvanized mesh directly to surface using concrete
fasteners with a minimum of ¾” length and a minimum 3/8” diameter head. For all wood
or steel stud construction, all exterior sheathings should be covered with weather resistant
barriers. Felt paper as well. Then 2.5 galvanized metal lath should be attached with galvanized
nails or staples penetrating 1” into stud, 16” on centre, with nails 6” apart. Lath to metal studs
should be done with non-corrosive self-tapping screws having a minimum of 1” in length and
minimum of 3/8” diameter head. Metal lath must overlap 4” at horizontal and vertical joints.
Vertical joints must overlap on a stud.
2. Applying the Scratch Coat
As a rule, lathed surface should be covered with a thin coat mortar and allowed to set prior to
installing the brick facade. Mortar can be mixed with enough water to achieve a workable (not
too wet or dry) consistency in a mortar tray or a wheelbarrow. The same can be used for scratch
coating, for applying the brick facade and for grouting the joints. The mortar must be firm and
moist before it is ready for use.
3. Mortaring the Brick Facade
Lay out a good mixture of brick facade – different sizes, shapes, textures and colours - around
the work area to give you a better choice of stone. Select a stone and apply a 1” thick, even layer
of mortar to the back of the stone.
Use a mason’s trowel to spread mortar to the back of the Brick facade , ½-inch to ¾-inch thick.
Do not spread any more mortar than you can cover with stones before the mortar sets up and
becomes unusable.
4. Applying the Brick Facade
Install the stones so the joints are as narrow as possible –no larger than ½- inch-wide-to create a
natural effect. Press the brick facade firmly enough into place on the wall surface so that mortar
behind the stone squeezes out around all sides. Using a gentle wiggling action while applying
the stone would insure a good bond.
In warm weather, masonry surfaces may need to be dampened prior to installing the stone
so that the moisture will not be drawn from the mortar to rapidly. To keep the stone clean
during construction, start installing brick facade at the top of the wall surface and work down.
Apply the corner pieces first for easiest fitting, alternating the long and short legs over the work
area. Then apply flat pieces and work toward the centre of the work area. Focus on keeping
the joints consistent. When selecting stones, try to achieve a balanced pattern of shapes, sizes,
colours, thickness and textures. Keep the mortar joints between the stones as tight and uniform
as possible.
5. Trimming the Brick Facade
When necessary, cut, trim and shaped stones with wide mouth nippers, a masonry hatchet, brick
trowel or a wet tile saw to form special sizes and shapes for better fitting. Use small pieces to fill in
gaps between larger ones. Use a dust mask and safety glasses when cutting cultured stones. Always
try to position the trimmed stones on the wall surface so that the cut edges will not show.
6. Grouting the joints
After all of the brick facade has been applied to the wall surface, the mortar has become “thumbprint
dry,” mix the grout so it is thin enough to be pushed through a grout bag but thick enough to stay
in place in the joints. Partially fill the joints between the stones with mortar in the manner of
decorating a cake. Be sure, while grouting, to cover any noticeable broken stone edges with mortar.
Stir in a mortar colorant if desired to enhance the look of the brick facade prior to grouting. All our
brick facade (Including Cultured Brick Veneer) must have grout between each brick. We DO NOT
WARRANTY a dry stacking installation.
7. Striking the Joints
When the mortar joints become firm, use a wooden or metal striking tool to rake out the excess
mortar to the desired depth and at the same time to force the mortar into the joints to thoroughly
seal the joint edges. Be careful not to work the joints too soon or the mortar will smear
8. Brooming
Brush the mortar joints with a whisk broom or soft brush to smooth them and clean away the loose
mortar. At the same time, brooms off any mortar spots from the face of the stone. Loose mortar
and mortar spots which have set for only a few hours clean up easily and should never be allowed
to set overnight.
9. Completion
Brick Facades do not require a sealer to warrant its guarantee. We do not cover damage to our brick
facade products from building settlement, excessive contact with salt or de-icing chemicals, paint
or airborne contaminants. ACID should NOT be used for clean-up.
